Melania Trump’s inauguration look makes a statement as fashion world finally embraces first family
First lady Melania Trump leaned into an all-American ensemble for Monday’s inaugural ceremony, turning fashion into political talking points.
Trump wore clothing by independent U.S. designers Adam Lippes and Eric Javits, featuring Lippes’s sleek double-breasted navy coat and a blue and ivory boater hat by Javits with a brim so wide that it even blocked a kiss by the president.
Her outfit, which coordinated with his navy coat, marked a change for Trump, who typically wore European designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, and Burberry during her husband’s first term. Her return to the White House, highlighted by clothing from the small business owners, underscored the push from President Donald Trump to buy American. It was also a departure from the tone she struck during his first term, where he would speak about the virtues of buying U.S.-made products and she would show up in outfits from some of the biggest fashion houses in Europe.
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“The tradition of the presidential inauguration embodies the beauty of American democracy and today we had the honor to dress our first lady, Mrs. Melania Trump,” Lippes said in a press release, adding that “Mrs. Trump’s outfit was created by some of America’s finest craftsmen and I take great pride in showing such work to the world.”
Naina Singla, a D.C.-based wardrobe stylist and fashion expert, told the Washington Examiner that fashion in American politics “serves as a powerful tool for communication, reflecting values and relatability.”
“Politicians, and especially first ladies, often use clothing choices to connect with constituents and make subtle political or cultural statements,” she said.
Singla said Melania Trump’s Monday’s look appeared “more confident and serious” than her 2017 inauguration outfit, a powder blue dress by Ralph Lauren with matching gloves and shoes. The outfit from eight years ago was a nod to former first lady Jacqueline Kennedy.
“A first lady’s outfit may not explicitly reflect her politics, but it can communicate her values, priorities, or cultural alignment,” Singla added. “Clothing choices can highlight support for causes, showcase American designers, and subtly influence public perception.”
Donald Trump acknowledged his wife’s sartorial clothing choices on Monday, quipping in a second speech in Emancipation Hall that her feet (she was wearing 4-inch heels) were killing her.
“I have a first lady who has been incredible,” he told the crowd. “I shouldn’t say this, I’m going to get hell when I say this. Her feet are absolutely aching. You know those heels.”
He also took a light-hearted jab at the hat and joked she called him “sir” when she is angry. The president had to hold on to her hat as a military helicopter taking off with former President Joe Biden picked up wind.
“She almost blew away,” the president said with a laugh. “She was being elevated off the ground.”
For Melania Trump, a former model, the walk from the runway to the White House has been tricky.
Most of the fashion world, hellbent on making political statements, turned their backs on her in 2016.
The notoriously snobbish set refused to dress her and Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour denied her a cover even though the magazine has given every other first lady, as well as former Vice President Kamala Harris, a glitzy one. Wintour’s distaste for all things Trump and outsize influence on the fashion world led to other designers turning on Melania Trump in an effort to stay on Wintour’s good side.
Jeremy Scott, the former creative director of Moschino, who dressed celebrities like Lady Gaga and Beyonce, said he would “never” design for the first lady.
So did Marc Jacobs.
“I have no interest whatsoever in dressing Melania Trump,” he told Women’s Wear Daily in 2016. “Personally, I’d rather put my energy into helping out those who will be hurt by Trump and his supporters.”
Designers Phillip Lim and Derek Lam, also said they had no interest in establishing a relationship with the Trumps.
As a result, Melania Trump’s personal stylist, Herve Pierre, said he has had to buy pieces off the rack for her versus custom made.
The few designers that did break with the rest of the industry back then faced swift backlash.
In 2017, there were calls to boycott Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana after Stefano Gabbana publicly thanked the first lady for wearing the brand’s signature black tuxedo jacket for her White House portrait.
This time around, things seem to be different for not only Melania Trump but those in her orbit.
Over the weekend and into Monday, the team at Oscar de la Renta posted images of Ivanka Trump and second lady Usha Vance wearing their custom gowns and coats.
Vance wore a black strapless velvet dress with a sweetheart neckline and floral accents to the Vice President’s Dinner on Saturday night. Ivanka Trump wore an off-the-shoulder crystal and pearl floor-length gown to the Inaugural Candlelight Dinner. The New York-based fashion designer’s social media channels posted behind the scenes images of the making of the first daughter’s dress.
Ivanka Trump also wore a camel coat by the designer to a Sunday afternoon event at Arlington National Cemetery.
“Oscar de la Renta’s team sharing images and tweets of the presidential family wearing their clothes reflects pride and likely strategic marketing,” Singla said. “It highlights the prestige of dressing influential figures, but also leverages the moment to showcase the brand. This again shows how fashion intersects with cultural and political significance because these types of endorsements can highlight a brand.”
Vance, who has largely remained off the fashion radar until this weekend, also turned heads wearing Gaurav Gupta, an Indian designer, to the Candlelight Dinner and has been getting rave reviews for the inauguration look.
“An ongoing celebration of American history and tradition. For the 60th Inaugural Ceremonies, Second Lady Usha Vance wears a custom peony cashmere coat with scarf wrap and complementing tea-length dress,” Oscar de la Renta’s team gushed on X. The post had gotten more than 100,000 views within a couple of hours.
Vance’s fashion picks could help redefine the way the country sees her husband.
“[Vice President J.D. Vance] took a lot of heat for his extreme views but Usha can help soften his image as he looks toward the future,” Richard Boyd, a Democratic strategist from California, told the Washington Examiner. “I think we saw that today.”
During a presidential inauguration, where pomp and pageantry often take center stage, what the first lady or a future first lady wears can help humanize the president.
Ralph Lauren, the quintessential American designer, has been dressing the country’s first ladies, Republicans and Democrats, for decades.
Jill Biden wore his clothing multiple times and Lauren went so far as to host her during one of his runway shows. Last month, he was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom by former President Joe Biden, making him the first fashion designer to get the honor. Both Bidens wore Ralph Lauren at Monday’s inauguration.
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Michelle Obama, who was not at the event, also used fashion to make political and social statements, going with then-emerging designer Jason Wu for her inaugural ball look. Her decision to go with Wu was career-making, and he has since collaborated with Nordstrom and Target.
Obama also made waves for frequently wearing J. Crew’s clothing that cost less than $200 per piece, as well as clothing from the Gap, another mall brand.